Christmas Dinner

Tips and ideas for a successful Christmas meal

Tips for cooking Christmas Dinner

Now December is upon us, it's time to turn our attention to planning for Christmas. I'm planning a series of posts focussing on different aspects of Christmas cooking and entertaining and I thought I'd start by looking at the main event. Christmas dinner.

Whether you're a complete novice or an old hand, there is no getting away from the fact that cooking a full-on traditional Christmas dinner involves a fair bit of work. I'm not going to pretend otherwise or that I've got a magic wand I can wave to make it any different! But there are plenty of things you can do to make life easier and also I wanted to share some of my favourite Christmas recipes with you too.

On the other hand, if you're one of those super-competent types who breezes through cooking Christmas dinner every year, effortlessly knocking out Michelin star-worthy plates featuring sprouts done 3 ways and 4 types of potatoes, while wondering what all the fuss is about, you probably don't need this post. Stop reading now.

The menu

OK, first things first: what do you actually want to eat on Christmas Day? There's a lot of pressure to produce an all-singing all-dancing Christmas lunch but there really is no law that says you have to. If you're really not big fans of sprouts/parsnips/stuffing etc then leave them out. In fact, there's nothing to say you have to cook a roast at all if you don't want to. Your Christmas traditions can be whatever you want them to be.

One of the things that's tricky on Christmas Day is coordinating oven and hob space to pull everything together at the right time, so anything we can do to reduce that works for me. We're not fans of bread sauce so I never make it. In recent years, I've found that fruity braised red cabbage means we're not so bothered about cranberry sauce any more. I still do a handful of token sprouts but to be honest I could probably dispense with those too! Also desserts: how many do you really need to offer? We all love Christmas pudding, so we stick to that.

I absolutely love stuffing, so for me Christmas dinner has to centre on a bird I can stuff. Turkey gets a bad press but I love a decent free range one carefully cooked. (My mantra is it's just a big chicken. Repeat. Just a big chicken.) I've cooked goose before now and that was amazing too, although there's less potential for leftovers. If you are fewer in numbers, then can I suggest duck or even a free range chicken? If you're less bothered about the stuffing then a rib of beef is amazing.

I'm going to share the recipes I use at Christmas but it goes without saying that if you'd rather buy some (or all) elements of the dinner then go for it! The aim is to enjoy a lovely meal together.

My Christmas dinner menu

Having said cook whatever you like, if you do want to go down the traditional route, this is what my Christmas Day menu looks like:

Starter

I don't really bother if it's just us but if we're having a bigger family meal then my sister makes lovely nibbles to have with a glass of fizz. If you serve these a couple of hours before you plan to eat the main course, then it gives you plenty of time to enjoy them before clearing everyone out to concentrate on the final push for the main event. More to come on nibbles in a separate post.

The bird

I do actually really like turkey and this year I've ordered a free range bronze turkey from my son's school farm. How cool is that? I used to be a bit scared of cooking turkey - worried it would dry out or the legs wouldn't cook through properly or whatever - but just think of it as an oversized chicken and you'll be fine.

Take your turkey out of the fridge a good hour before you want to cook it. Pat it dry with kitchen roll and pop it in the roasting tin. Preheat your oven to the hottest setting.

From the neck end of the turkey, gently loosen the skin that covers the breast - take it slowly so you don't rip it. Then into the space between the skin and the breast, spoon in (or use your fingers) either some stuffing or butter that you've softened and mashed up with chopped herbs of your choice - thyme or rosemary are both lovely. Massage the top a bit to distribute the stuffing. You can also put more stuffing in the neck end of the turkey itself.

In the main cavity I add more herbs (thyme or rosemary) and a halved clementine (or lemon). Rub a little olive oil all over the skin and season with salt and pepper.

Cover with foil and place in the preheated oven, immediately turning it down to 180C. Cook for 35-40 mins per kilo - so a 5kg bird will take 3-3 1/2 hours - removing the foil for the last hour or so. Test to see if it's cooked by piercing the thickest part of the thigh with a skewer - the juices should run clear and the leg come away easily from the body when you pull on it.

Remove to a carving board, cover with foil and a few towels (I use clean bath towels for this) and leave to rest for at least half an hour. I usually leave for an hour while I roast the potatoes.

If you fancy goose instead then can I recommend BBC Good Food's Golden Stuffed Goose? I cooked this a few years ago and it was amazing. The potato, leek and lemon stuffing is sublime and the baked apples stuffed with cranberry were fabulous too. A similar treatment works for duck too, adjusting the cooking times, of course. 

Stuffing

With turkey, comes stuffing. Don't fight it. It's possibly my absolute favourite bit of Christmas Dinner. I like to ring the changes with this but Delia is a failsafe source of inspiration. I think my favourite is this traditional 18th Century Stuffing - such a yummy combination of sausagemeat, chestnuts, onions and herbs - but I also like her American Style Stuffing recipe, which is a chunky mix of onion, celery and sausage.

For a vegetarian option, I like the look of this Apricot and Hazelnut Stuffing from BBC Good Food (disclaimer: I haven't actually made this one but it gets good reviews.)

Veggie main course

I don't usually have vegetarians to cater for at Christmas, but if you do then can I suggest making an individual version of my onion tart? Use a large saucer as a template for the pastry base. You could also ring the changes here with a butternut squash, mushroom, red onion and sage tart with your favourite vegetarian cheese.

Roast potatoes

I do make mighty fine roast potatoes, even if I do say so myself. I usually use olive oil (and obviously this is vegetarian friendly) but for Christmas I like to use goose fat. You need a nice floury potato like King Edward or Maris Piper for the best roasties. Bear in mind that a very big pan of potatoes will take longer to come to the boil than usual.

Preheat the oven to 220C.

Peel the potatoes and cut each one into 2-3 pieces unless very small. Pop into a saucepan and parboil for 8-10mins - you want them quite soft but not collapsing. Drain, return to the pan, pop the lid on and let them steam for a minute or so, then shake the pan vigorously so you fluff up the edges.

Next put some goose fat or olive oil into the roasting tin you want to cook the potatoes in and heat it on the hob. This can be a bit scary but the hot fat makes a big difference so hold your nerve. Tip in the parboiled potatoes (carefully, the fat will spit a bit) and quickly baste each one in fat before putting in the oven. Cook until crunchy and golden, basting occasionally - I find they need about an hour.

Pigs in blankets

Buy these. There are no medals handed out for wrapping your own chipolatas in bacon.

Red cabbage

I was relatively late to the idea of red cabbage with Christmas dinner but now I can't imagine not having it. I find some braised cabbage recipes a bit too sweet but this Jamie Oliver version uses smoked bacon and fennel seeds, which balances out the sweetness rather nicely. It's incredibly moreish!

Cranberry sauce

As I said, I don't usually bother with cranberry sauce any more as I find the red cabbage fulfils that fruity role rather nicely. But if you do want to make some then Delia's cranberry and orange relish is the way to go. Make in advance and freeze. (I'd also consider halving the recipe unless you're feeding the five thousand!)

Roast parsnips

I tend to keep these fairly plain but if you feel the need to jazz them up a bit then they're nice roasted with fresh thyme. (As are carrots) Or you could steam your parsnips and mash them with butter (and perhaps some fresh thyme?)

Sprouts and carrots

Again, I keep these very simple and steam them. There is so much else going on on the plate (not to mention the stove!) that I think their freshness, simplicity and crunch is a welcome contrast. The carrots, in particular, are often popular with very young and elderly guests alike, so I do plenty!

If you want fancier sprouts though, there's a lovely roasted sprouts and shallots recipe in River Cottage Veg Everyday. Or Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall also suggests creaming sprouts with chestnuts and bacon - I found this a bit rich personally but it went down well with our guests. Or Nigella cooks them with chestnuts and pancetta.

Gravy

I usually make Jamie Oliver's Get Ahead Gravy a couple of weeks before Christmas. It's a bit of a performance but does make things very easy on the day. I find it better to use stock rather than water, though and reduce it well.

If you want or need a veggie gravy then can I suggest Nigel Slater's browned onion and madeira gravy? It's sublime. I usually serve this as it is but for Christmas dinner might be tempted to whizz it up in the blender for a smooth gravy (in which case, do adjust the consistency with extra stock if required.)

Bread sauce

As I said, we're not fans of bread sauce, but friends who are recommend Nigella's version.

Pudding

We always have Christmas pudding. Either my Mum's secret recipe (that I suspect is based on Delia's version) or to be honest, if we're not with Mum, I buy it from Waitrose. Serve with ice cream, custard, brandy butter or my favourite, whipped cream.

Top tip: if you want to flame your pudding, Sambuca (unsurprisingly!) makes for excellent, dramatic flames! A fact we discovered by accident one year after realising too late we'd run out of both brandy and vodka...

Planning ahead

Have you got enough roasting tins/pans/serving dishes to cook and serve everything? How about plates/cutlery/glasses/seats for everyone? Plenty of foil, kitchen roll, dishwasher tablets, washing up liquid, matches? 

What can you cook ahead of time? I make the stuffing, braised red cabbage and gravy a week or two ahead of time and freeze until the big day. Veg all gets peeled on Christmas Eve and left in containers of water in the fridge overnight.

Book an online supermarket delivery slot and get most of the food delivered a few days before, dashing out for a few last minute fresh bits early on Christmas Eve.

Make a timing plan

Start with what time you want to eat and work backwards. Build in some leeway for things taking a little longer than expected, especially if you're cooking for many more people than usual - pans of vegetables will take longer to come to the boil etc. Do a sense check of your plan - will you have enough oven and hob space, roasting tins and pans to cook everything at once? Bear in mind that roast potatoes need a hotter oven than everything else. You might need to juggle some things around. The turkey will keep warm perfectly happily under tin foil and a couple of folded bath towels, which helps.

Rope in help

You don't have to do this all yourself, especially if there's a big crowd. I come from a big family and there's often a big crowd on Christmas Day but handily we all like to cook and a nice tradition has evolved where we all bring a contribution to the meal. My Mum makes amazing Christmas puddings and the Christmas cake, I'm in charge of stuffing and red cabbage, my sister has the time and patience to make canapes and mince pies, my brother orders the cheese, Dad leads on wine and veg peeling.

On the actual day, you don't want too many bodies getting under your feet but it's handy to have a nominated sous chef to help out. And a willing soul to pitch in with the washing up is worth their weight in gold....

Do remember though, the best thing about Christmas is having everyone together, sharing a meal and laughing at the cheesy cracker jokes. Noone will care if the food is less than Michelin standard (and if they do then they're missing the point and definitely don't invite them again!) I can't remember most of the Christmas Dinners I've eaten if I'm honest. It's just one meal and it's definitely not worth having a meltdown over. (Although the year the oven tripped the fusebox half way through was a bit of a challenge on that front... my Dad just handed me more champagne while the more technically minded members of the family scrabbled around for a solution. I can laugh about it now!)

Merry Christmas everyone! 

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